The Mezquita at Córdoba is quite a wonder to behold. We reached it early the next morning and found a choice
parking spot for the car. The Mezquita's design started what some call the Califal style. This is a
result of a mixture of Roman, Gothic, Byzantine, Syrian and Persian influences.
This bold new design also influenced the rest of the Arabian-Hispanic architecture for the future
centuries. It still can been seen during the Mudéjar styles of Spanish muslims
in the Spain after the Christian reconquest. As we roamed southern Spain, we could see many other
buildings influenced by this unique design.
Caliph Abderramán I was the builder of the colossal hall, consisting of 11 naves with 110 columns.
Many of the columns were former Roman and Byzantine buildings. The arabic influence of geometry resulted in
the arches. In order to create such a large and spacious hall, a second row of arches was built over the first.
It was a bold and unique architectural direction and resulted in creating a unique ambience of light
and shadow.
Later, Abderramán II added 8 more arches in 833 and with more recycled Roman buildings.
This time, the white marble columns from the Roman amphitheater
at Mérida were used. In 961, Alhakem II built the minaret and the Kliba with its cupola of
meshed arches. We didn't manage to go up the tower however as they were closed at that time although it came highly recommended.
You should try to go up the towers as they will give you a bird's eye view of the Mezquita as well as the surrounding
town. The last important enlargement was made in 987
by caliph Alamanzor. He enlarged the mosque by adding columns of blue and red marble. By doing so, he
almost doubled the original size of the mosque. A natural obstacle, the river Guadalquivir meant that
the expansion could only be made the other way, westward so the mosque in Córdoba is probably the only mosque in
the world without the Mihrab at the center. The Mihrab however is exquisitely decorated, by gold mosiacs and a ceiling that
was carved from a single block of marble. Surprisingly, the mosque is also not facing Mecca, the Holy
City of Islam. Rather it faces Damascus. It is said the Abderramán I missed his hometown very much
which maybe explains the orientation.
When the Christians reconquered Córdoba in 1236,
they committed probably one of the worse architectural atrocities by converting the mosque into a church.
That said, it probably also saved the mosque from being razed. During the Christian reconquest, which reach a fervor pitch,
many things that were un-Christian were destroyed. I'm sure, as anyone who visits this fantastic feat
of design and archecture that they were quite awestruck. The mezquita was really built to impress.
The first modifications to the mezquita took place in the 13th century. The additions were the Royal Chapel
and the Capilla Real.
The Catholic Church and King Charles V made the situation worse by building a cathedral inside the original mosque.
The town's administration did not favor this action but their protests were ignored.
This new addition took over 230 years so the original design which was influenced by Gothic styles soon
absorbed other newer influences, including the Baroque and Renaissance styles.
Once completed, it is quite impressive, notably the Cardinal's Chapel, and the monstrance of Enrique de Arfe.
This is an invory crucifix of Alonso Cano. There are quite a few sculptures and paintings within.
The other interesting part of the Mezquita is the courtyard. The Patio de los Naranjos which is a
classic Islamic ablutions courtyard. The orange trees and fountains are wonderfully preserved.
Without the throngs of visitors, it is probably very tranquil among the orange trees and flowing waters, especially
when the entire courtyard is surrounded by high thick walls. It's an experience that cannot be conveyed through words.
The stone streets of Córdoba are very old and narrow, full of bustling people and activity but once you
step through the magnificent doors and arches into the courtyard, it's like a different world altogether.
While we were at the Patio de los Naranjos, it was not only Easter but spring as well so among the
marching pilgrims in their dark hoods, the waft of incense in the air, the orange trees lent a touch of color by
bearing hundreds of ripening oranges. It is a good place to sit by the fountains, under the shade of the orange trees
to write which is exactly what we did.
Comment from heronman Posted on: Dec 05, 2001 11:00pm
dO YOU PLAN OUT YOUR TRIPS FOR SHOOTING OR SIGHTSEEING? I HAVE FOUND THAT SHOOTING TAKES MORE TIME. YOU NEED TO HAVE THE RIGHT LENSES, FILM AND THINGS PLUS THE TIME IT TAKES TO FIND A SHOOTING LOCATION, SETTING UP AND SHOOT. AS A SIGHT SEER YOU LOOK TAKE SNAPS AND MOVE ON .. A PHOTOGRAPHER HAS A MUCH BETTER TIME! DON'T YOU THINK?
Comment from eugene Posted on: Jan 16, 2002 9:40am
True. It's always a bit of conflict since if you want to shoot things well, you need time and means you see less too. I always try to balance both of them by providing more time (no organized tours!) and be more selective of the spots to visit. It's hard and sometimes you get things right and some you don't.
Comment from glentownshend Posted on: May 01, 2002 2:55am
note this good story on cordoba - and a good site, cheers - dt
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