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Paradise Under Siege!
MY family and I went to Sipadan Island with the encouragement of friends in Sabah that it was the safest time to go because of the increased police and military presence in the area after 21 people were kidnapped in April 2000. Sure enough, while there, police boats patrolled the area. The island itself had 12 soldiers and four policemen. And then, on the day we left, Sept 10 a second kidnapping occured on Pandanan Island, which is about half an hour away by speedboat. (We only found out the next day, though.)
So you get to see big, ugly and weird ocean-deep fish, not just the prettily-coloured aquarium variety you find the shallower waters of Redang or Perhentian. Of course you get those too in Sipadan too, and seeing both the macro and micro marine life really stirrs up greater appreciation for Nature. Every little thing, from the tiniest anemone to the giant turtles, has its place and purpose.
WE flew to Tawau via Kota Kinabalu. From Tawau, it's about a 2 hour drive to Semporna where the speedboats take you to Sipadan. The sea journey itself is about an hour. Semporna's coastline is really pretty, with green hills that roll down into swamps which fringe the clear blue sea water. Fishing villages with their houses on stilts over the water also make for very nice photos, but in our case, forget it. We had a boat driver who thought he was racing the Formula One, plus the sea was choppy that day. We arrived at Sipadan thoroughly soaked. On the way, we stopped to drop off a diver at Kapalai which is hardly an island. It's a shallow reef over which they've built a resort on stilts. There is no solid ground anywhere and other tourists said you can feel the whole structure shake in a storm or when it's high tide. Anyway, snorkling and diving at Kapalai is supposed to be good as well.
© 2000 Deborah Loh.
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